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Gulmarg's Skiing Dreams Melt Away

As per a media report, Javid Ahmad, a 32-year-old ski trainer based in Gulmarg, faced an unexpected turn of events when a viral video in early 2024 highlighted the renowned ski resort's struggle with a lack of snow due to unusually dry weather. This led to the disappointment of travellers, particularly skiers, resulting in a wave of booking cancellations for him.

While not entirely uncommon, the Meteorological Station in Srinagar reported that Kashmir is currently undergoing an extended dry spell, characterised by a significant 79 per cent reduction in rainfall and minimal snowfall as of December 2023. Although Kashmir encounters prolonged dry spells approximately once every five years, even under such extreme weather conditions, Gulmarg has never witnessed its slopes devoid of snow.

This winter, the disappointment of tourists and skiing enthusiasts, both from within the country and internationally, was palpable due to the absence of snow in the town nestled at an elevation of 8694 feet, renowned for its skiing pleasures. This led to a decline in the usual influx of visitors during a season that typically sees high demand for accommodations. In 2023, Gulmarg had achieved a notable record with 16.50 lakh tourist arrivals, surpassing the previous year's 15.4 lakhs. The cable car, catering to over a million tourists, generated historic revenue of Rs 108 crore, exceeding the Rs 91 crore revenue in 2022.

The highlight of the meadow's crowd was on 31 December, 2023 attracting numerous people—mostly locals—gathered to celebrate the year-end festivities.

During the onset of Chillai Kalan, the most severe 40-day stretch of winter in Kashmir characterized by the heaviest snowfall lasting until January 29, Ahmad consistently received regular calls from tourists, saying, “There is no snow, and there are not any promising forecasts. We have seen videos showing the hills are dry, so can you please cancel our booking?” Despite a modest snowfall towards the end of this harsh chill period caused by the Western Disturbance (WD), the nature of the inquiries from visitors remained unchanged.

Massive Disruptions

Hinging entirely on snowfall, tour operators, guides, and skiers in Gulmarg express deep sorrow over the impact of dry weather on their livelihoods. Some individuals have reluctantly sought alternative employment to support their families, while others hold onto hope in the stark landscape, eagerly awaiting a snowfall.

Beyond hotels, several thousand families in the vicinity of Tangmarg depend solely on Gulmarg for their livelihoods. Among them are souvenir vendors, craft sellers, sledge masters, horsemen, guides, and ATV drivers. The significant decline in income, a phenomenon experienced after many years, has had a profoundly serious effect on them.

In a sense, Gulmarg found itself entangled in the narrative it projected. Despite being a year-round destination, located about an hour's drive from Srinagar, Gulmarg is predominantly recognised as Kashmir's 'winter wonderland.' Apart from the summer season, visitors associate Gulmarg primarily with snow during winters. While other destinations also experienced a lack of snow, they did not witness a drastic decline in arrivals, a contrast to the situation in Gulmarg.

“We were even trying to convey to them that snowfall in Gulmarg is not everything. There is more beyond snow, but unfortunately, no one understands, and the booking cancellations continued,” Ahmad mentioned. “But all we can say is that the snow-clad mountains here are truly oddly brown and barren, which we have not seen before.”

Not the Mainstay

While tourism contributes less than eight percent to Kashmir's State Gross Domestic Product (SGDP), it has gradually become a crucial gauge for measuring the return of peace in the region. Over the years, the arrival data has served as a tool for politicians to justify their interventions, initially popularised by local leaders and now widely employed by the central government. Unlike other sectors, tourism earnings have a swift and widespread impact.

The tourism industry supports thousands of families involved in hotel and houseboat ownership, as well as those connected to related sectors like transportation and guiding. Despite Gulmarg being a day destination, it hosts some of the finest hotels, boasting a total of 32 hotels and guest houses with over 800 rooms, along with additional accommodations in the vicinity.

“There are empty hotels and silent streets in, what is, usually a buzzing tourist season at this point,” mourned Mushtaq Ahmad, who works in Gulmarg. Foreseeing the potential impact of climate change on Kashmir this year, Mushtaq pondered the idea of seeking employment elsewhere. “They urged me to work as a ski guide, unaware of the severe impact of climate change, leaving us jobless.” Despite his family urging him to stay, anticipating a thriving tourist season, Mushtaq, the sole breadwinner, shared that he is passing the time by playing cricket in the meadows at the base of the ski slopes.

Gulmarg stands as the singular location in Kashmir where skiing and winter sports form a self-sustaining economy. The area supports guides, instructors, and sports tool shops where skiers can rent equipment. It boasts an extensive cable car and chair lift system, complete with adequate protective gear. “Ski lifts are closed, rental shops are shut, and a newly constructed ice rink is now a pool of dank water,” Hamid Masoodi, a hotel manager, pointed out.

Gulmarg is the exclusive destination outside the Alps renowned for its powder snow, considered the finest quality for exceptional skiing. Despite a slight snowfall concealing the once vibrant Gulmarg, the sector remains firmly under lock and key.

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